I can see you are going to be an excellent player, you are going very deep into a concept that is only theory. High card points, rule of 20, quick trick and losing trick count. is more theory
Let me use this example and I am serious. You have 13 spades in your hand
Like all of us you would have NO Problem bidding 7 spades.
1. you only have 10 hcp that’s bad
2. you only have 3 quick tricks.
3. you have 0 losers
4. rule of 20 count your high card points and the number of cards in your 2 longest suit if it's more than 20 open the bidding let's see 10 hcp plus 13 for number of cards in longest suit open hand = 23
The reason for answering the question with a question. Is to suggest that if a hand meets 2 of the 4 criteria open the hand.
If it does not meet the requirement of 2 out of 4 don’t open.
Now let's say you seriously restrict your hand evaluation to this rule 10 times. 8 times it is very successful 2 times it gets you a bad result. I think 80% is a good success ratio no matter what you are doing.
Wednesday, February 9, 2011
Tuesday, November 30, 2010
Doubles
Takeout Doubles. A double that we call a normal takeout double is a bid made at your first opportunity to bid after an opponent has opened the bidding. It enables you to show strength and, at the same time, to ask your partner to name his best suit. It is roughly the equivalent of an opening bid and (1) shows support for all unbid suits with shortness in the suit doubled, or (2) shows a very good one-suited hand that was too good to overcall, or (3) shows a very good balanced hand that is too good to overcall 1NT. Examples:
You (a) ♠AQxx ♥x ♦Kxxx ♣Axxx or 1♥ DBL (b) ♠Kxxx ♥Kx ♦AQx ♣xxxx
Negative Doubles. A double is negative when made by the partner of the opening bidder after RHO (right hand opponent) has overcalled a suit. In other words, it is a double of an opponent's overcall for takeout rather than for penalties. The negative double indicates one of several kinds of hands: (1) a four-card unbid major suit and an unbid minor suit, (2) a four-card unbid major suit and support for opener's first bid suit, (3) two four-card unbid major suits, (4) two unbid minor suits, (5) rarely, a one-suited hand (unbid major suit) without the values to bid it freely. If you use a five-card major system of bidding, the use of negative doubles is fundamental to the system. Examples:
Pard Opp You
(a) 1♣ 1♦ DBL ♠Axxx ♥Kxxx ♦xx ♣xxx Shows both majors
(b) 1♣ 1♠ DBL ♠Kx ♥Axxx ♦Qxxx ♣xxx Shows other Major+minor
(c) 1♥ 1♠ DBL ♠xx ♥xx ♦AQxxx ♣Kxxx Shows both minors
Re-Opening Doubles. There are at least two situations in which the opening bidder should strive to reopen the bidding by doubling. (1) If your partnership plays negative doubles, it is extremely important for the opening bidder to reopen the bidding with a double whenever he is short in the suit overcalled by the opponents. (2) It is also important to reopen the bidding with a double in competitive auctions when you have a REALLY good hand (so as to differentiate from competitive hands with long suits.) Generally this second type hand will have at least three-card support for the unbid suits regardless of the opposition bidding. It also indicates either a desire to hear about partner's suit or the desire to show a very good hand and a very good suit of one's own. Therefore in an auction similar to 1♠ 2♣ Pass 3♣ ? Reopen with a double on something like ♠ AKxxxx ♥ AKx ♦QJx ♣x but bid 3♠ on something like AKJ10xx ♥ Kxx ♦Kxx ♣x.
Balancing Doubles. Another type of reopening double is also called a balancing double. It applies after the opening bid is followed by two passes and does not promise the same strength and distribution required for a direct takeout double.
Thus 1♠ Pass Pass X is for takeout but can be less about an Ace or King less than a double in the direct seat. Therefore, double a 1♥ opening bid in the balancing seat with (a) ♠Kxxx ♥x ♦Axxx ♣Qxxx or (b) ♠xxxx ♥xx ♦AKxx ♣Kxx
Responsive Doubles. A responsive double is used by the partner of a doubling or overcalling partner and tends to show the two unbid suits with minimal (1 or 2 card) support for partner's suit. Not implied by partner
(a) North East South West (b) North East South West
1H X 2H X = denies S 1S X 2S X = denies H
1H 1S 2H X = promises other two suites
Support Doubles (and Redoubles). If an opponent overcalls after partner has responded in a new suit at the one or two level, a double by the opening bidder shows three-card support while an immediate raise shows four-card support. If the opponent makes a takeout double instead of overcalling, a redouble shows three-card support.
Lead-Directing Doubles. A lead-directing double is a double made in hopes of directing the opening lead. These doubles are not necessarily made to increase the size of the set that you might anticipate, but rather to give your side a chance to obtain the best result possible. 1NT Pass 2♣ X is lead directing showing clubs. Lead directing doubles of transfers bids and RKC responses are other examples that often work.
In between the two basic types of doubles are a few that can be construed as both or either. Maximal doubles fall into this category as do cooperative-type doubles. These doubles are made in order to inform partner but at the same time they can be easily be converted to penalty doubles.
Maximal Overcall Doubles. Occasionally, when both opponents' are bidding, it interferes with the ability of the opening bidder and the responder to make trial bids or game tries. It is in such situations that maximal overcall doubles are used. Thus a double when there is not room to make a suit game try becomes a game try of its own.......but since it shows extra values it can be converted to penalty.
Cooperative Doubles. Modern bidding has almost become obsessed with doubles that are not clearly penalty but otherwise have no specific meaning. Such doubles have been termed cooperative because they apply in competitive situations (after 4 you and partner have found a fit) and are an invitation to either bid again or sit for the double as though it were a penalty double. Sometimes these are very subtle in the auction but they are intended to show uncertainty about whether bidding more or defending is best at this particular point. (a) You LHO Partner RHO
1D 1H 2D 2H
Pass Pass DBL
Penalty Doubles. Almost all other doubles are penalty!! But, there are some specific situations that are by definition penalty. These, then, are rules!!
(1) The double of an opening strong No Trump bid at any level is penalty except when made by a passed hand or when you’ve adopted a convention to the contrary.
(2) The double of a No Trump overcall at any level is penalty except when made by a passed hand or when you’ve adopted a convention to the contrary.
(3) If either you or your partner has made a natural strong No Trump call in the auction, doubles of opponents’ bids are penalty.
(4) An “out of the blue” double at the three level or higher is penalty. (Doubler has remained silent until then).
(5) If either you or your partner has made an earlier penalty double or made a penalty pass of a takeout double, a double is penalty.
(6) If either you or your partner has made a preemptive bid and the other doubles, it’s penalty. (IT IS NOT NEGATIVE). Example: 3♦ 3♥ DBL is penalty.
(7) Generally speaking a rule to remember is that in competitive auctions if the double is over the bidder (or behind), its penalty. If it's under the bidder (or in front of), it's takeout. And if you think about this for a minute or two it makes sense. Thus in the auction 1NT 2♥ Pass Pass DBL, the double is intended for takeout, but in the auctions 1NT Pass Pass 2♥ DBL or 1NT 2♥ DBL, the doubles are penalty.
You (a) ♠AQxx ♥x ♦Kxxx ♣Axxx or 1♥ DBL (b) ♠Kxxx ♥Kx ♦AQx ♣xxxx
Negative Doubles. A double is negative when made by the partner of the opening bidder after RHO (right hand opponent) has overcalled a suit. In other words, it is a double of an opponent's overcall for takeout rather than for penalties. The negative double indicates one of several kinds of hands: (1) a four-card unbid major suit and an unbid minor suit, (2) a four-card unbid major suit and support for opener's first bid suit, (3) two four-card unbid major suits, (4) two unbid minor suits, (5) rarely, a one-suited hand (unbid major suit) without the values to bid it freely. If you use a five-card major system of bidding, the use of negative doubles is fundamental to the system. Examples:
Pard Opp You
(a) 1♣ 1♦ DBL ♠Axxx ♥Kxxx ♦xx ♣xxx Shows both majors
(b) 1♣ 1♠ DBL ♠Kx ♥Axxx ♦Qxxx ♣xxx Shows other Major+minor
(c) 1♥ 1♠ DBL ♠xx ♥xx ♦AQxxx ♣Kxxx Shows both minors
Re-Opening Doubles. There are at least two situations in which the opening bidder should strive to reopen the bidding by doubling. (1) If your partnership plays negative doubles, it is extremely important for the opening bidder to reopen the bidding with a double whenever he is short in the suit overcalled by the opponents. (2) It is also important to reopen the bidding with a double in competitive auctions when you have a REALLY good hand (so as to differentiate from competitive hands with long suits.) Generally this second type hand will have at least three-card support for the unbid suits regardless of the opposition bidding. It also indicates either a desire to hear about partner's suit or the desire to show a very good hand and a very good suit of one's own. Therefore in an auction similar to 1♠ 2♣ Pass 3♣ ? Reopen with a double on something like ♠ AKxxxx ♥ AKx ♦QJx ♣x but bid 3♠ on something like AKJ10xx ♥ Kxx ♦Kxx ♣x.
Balancing Doubles. Another type of reopening double is also called a balancing double. It applies after the opening bid is followed by two passes and does not promise the same strength and distribution required for a direct takeout double.
Thus 1♠ Pass Pass X is for takeout but can be less about an Ace or King less than a double in the direct seat. Therefore, double a 1♥ opening bid in the balancing seat with (a) ♠Kxxx ♥x ♦Axxx ♣Qxxx or (b) ♠xxxx ♥xx ♦AKxx ♣Kxx
Responsive Doubles. A responsive double is used by the partner of a doubling or overcalling partner and tends to show the two unbid suits with minimal (1 or 2 card) support for partner's suit. Not implied by partner
(a) North East South West (b) North East South West
1H X 2H X = denies S 1S X 2S X = denies H
1H 1S 2H X = promises other two suites
Support Doubles (and Redoubles). If an opponent overcalls after partner has responded in a new suit at the one or two level, a double by the opening bidder shows three-card support while an immediate raise shows four-card support. If the opponent makes a takeout double instead of overcalling, a redouble shows three-card support.
Lead-Directing Doubles. A lead-directing double is a double made in hopes of directing the opening lead. These doubles are not necessarily made to increase the size of the set that you might anticipate, but rather to give your side a chance to obtain the best result possible. 1NT Pass 2♣ X is lead directing showing clubs. Lead directing doubles of transfers bids and RKC responses are other examples that often work.
In between the two basic types of doubles are a few that can be construed as both or either. Maximal doubles fall into this category as do cooperative-type doubles. These doubles are made in order to inform partner but at the same time they can be easily be converted to penalty doubles.
Maximal Overcall Doubles. Occasionally, when both opponents' are bidding, it interferes with the ability of the opening bidder and the responder to make trial bids or game tries. It is in such situations that maximal overcall doubles are used. Thus a double when there is not room to make a suit game try becomes a game try of its own.......but since it shows extra values it can be converted to penalty.
Cooperative Doubles. Modern bidding has almost become obsessed with doubles that are not clearly penalty but otherwise have no specific meaning. Such doubles have been termed cooperative because they apply in competitive situations (after 4 you and partner have found a fit) and are an invitation to either bid again or sit for the double as though it were a penalty double. Sometimes these are very subtle in the auction but they are intended to show uncertainty about whether bidding more or defending is best at this particular point. (a) You LHO Partner RHO
1D 1H 2D 2H
Pass Pass DBL
Penalty Doubles. Almost all other doubles are penalty!! But, there are some specific situations that are by definition penalty. These, then, are rules!!
(1) The double of an opening strong No Trump bid at any level is penalty except when made by a passed hand or when you’ve adopted a convention to the contrary.
(2) The double of a No Trump overcall at any level is penalty except when made by a passed hand or when you’ve adopted a convention to the contrary.
(3) If either you or your partner has made a natural strong No Trump call in the auction, doubles of opponents’ bids are penalty.
(4) An “out of the blue” double at the three level or higher is penalty. (Doubler has remained silent until then).
(5) If either you or your partner has made an earlier penalty double or made a penalty pass of a takeout double, a double is penalty.
(6) If either you or your partner has made a preemptive bid and the other doubles, it’s penalty. (IT IS NOT NEGATIVE). Example: 3♦ 3♥ DBL is penalty.
(7) Generally speaking a rule to remember is that in competitive auctions if the double is over the bidder (or behind), its penalty. If it's under the bidder (or in front of), it's takeout. And if you think about this for a minute or two it makes sense. Thus in the auction 1NT 2♥ Pass Pass DBL, the double is intended for takeout, but in the auctions 1NT Pass Pass 2♥ DBL or 1NT 2♥ DBL, the doubles are penalty.
Wednesday, November 10, 2010
Monday, November 1, 2010
chose your actions
My wife has been teaching 1st grade for many years, it has always fascinated me how she could control 20 6 year olds.
I was in her class the other day and I watched with amazement. She asked this 1 child, Why did you chose to act out. Child as the rest of us would say, "I don't know". Well, she immediately said, I expect you to chose your actions before you do them and consider what will happen if you make the wrong choice.
Well this has made a tremendous effect on my bridge game & I know it will yours. Before I start getting angry with my partner for doing something that I don’t agree with ( right or wrong) I chose not to get angry, I control my emotions. We can discuss the defense or the bidding later, make a note of it. The anger that builds up inside is an emotion that you can control. Chose to control your feelings. How important is this scenario? Screaming DIRECTOR or even screaming Director please, loud enough to scare everyone within 6 tables of where your sitting is not an acceptable form of communication. So what if the person revoked, lead out of turn or did something else that requires a professional ruling. Chose to control your emotions, lower your blood pressure and relax. You still should call the director but chose to control your emotions. Call him as you would call over a friend.
I want all these kitchen bridge players to take a different view of duplicate. Each one of us on an individual basis are the only ones that can bring them back to playing at our clubs. Don't be an emotional basket case. Chose your actions
I was in her class the other day and I watched with amazement. She asked this 1 child, Why did you chose to act out. Child as the rest of us would say, "I don't know". Well, she immediately said, I expect you to chose your actions before you do them and consider what will happen if you make the wrong choice.
Well this has made a tremendous effect on my bridge game & I know it will yours. Before I start getting angry with my partner for doing something that I don’t agree with ( right or wrong) I chose not to get angry, I control my emotions. We can discuss the defense or the bidding later, make a note of it. The anger that builds up inside is an emotion that you can control. Chose to control your feelings. How important is this scenario? Screaming DIRECTOR or even screaming Director please, loud enough to scare everyone within 6 tables of where your sitting is not an acceptable form of communication. So what if the person revoked, lead out of turn or did something else that requires a professional ruling. Chose to control your emotions, lower your blood pressure and relax. You still should call the director but chose to control your emotions. Call him as you would call over a friend.
I want all these kitchen bridge players to take a different view of duplicate. Each one of us on an individual basis are the only ones that can bring them back to playing at our clubs. Don't be an emotional basket case. Chose your actions
Thursday, September 30, 2010
Play bridge online
BBO Information
Go to this website.
http://www.bridgebase.com/
Make it an icon on your desk top. (right click)
options are (create a shortcut)
chose yes.
once you get there it says
Play Bridge Now
Click on Play bridge now.
then!
Click on:
Become a member (free)
Now create a user name (first name###) First name with number will work. (you may have to use a 2 or 3 digit number)
Make up a password
Put in your real name
country
Skill level
(novice)
Then log in!
I was just on line there were 14,561 Players were on line at the site.
Now what to do.
1. bottom right of screen My friends
click on my friends
put in depristo and hit add
my login name is "depristo"
put me on your friends list
close
2. Make sure each of you sends each other your login name and I would like to have it also.
This way we can find each other on line.
3. top left corner of screen Play or Watch Bridge
Click on Help me find a game
Take me to an interesting table ( you can watch some real good players playing)
enough watching
top left side Home
Play or Watch Bridge
Start a match point table
Reserve seats at your table
whoever is serving a table put each of your names in the compass points.
say OK
NOW you are ready to start table!
hit start table -relaxed game and everyone will show up automatically at your table. Assuming they are on line.
and you have them in your friends list.
Chat block in bottom of screen
Talk to table (everyone hears)
Talk to individual (only that person hears)
I would probably print this out and it will be easier to follow
Good luck guys !!
I am on line a lot so If I run into you I may be able to help/direct you ( so to speak)
I am excited to see that you guys will enjoy the insanity of this game as much as I have over the years.
Have a great day!
Unless you made other plans.
Have a great day!
Unless you made other plans.
Go to this website.
http://www.bridgebase.com/
Make it an icon on your desk top. (right click)
options are (create a shortcut)
chose yes.
once you get there it says
Play Bridge Now
Click on Play bridge now.
then!
Click on:
Become a member (free)
Now create a user name (first name###) First name with number will work. (you may have to use a 2 or 3 digit number)
Make up a password
Put in your real name
country
Skill level
(novice)
Then log in!
I was just on line there were 14,561 Players were on line at the site.
Now what to do.
1. bottom right of screen My friends
click on my friends
put in depristo and hit add
my login name is "depristo"
put me on your friends list
close
2. Make sure each of you sends each other your login name and I would like to have it also.
This way we can find each other on line.
3. top left corner of screen Play or Watch Bridge
Click on Help me find a game
Take me to an interesting table ( you can watch some real good players playing)
enough watching
top left side Home
Play or Watch Bridge
Start a match point table
Reserve seats at your table
whoever is serving a table put each of your names in the compass points.
say OK
NOW you are ready to start table!
hit start table -relaxed game and everyone will show up automatically at your table. Assuming they are on line.
and you have them in your friends list.
Chat block in bottom of screen
Talk to table (everyone hears)
Talk to individual (only that person hears)
I would probably print this out and it will be easier to follow
Good luck guys !!
I am on line a lot so If I run into you I may be able to help/direct you ( so to speak)
I am excited to see that you guys will enjoy the insanity of this game as much as I have over the years.
Have a great day!
Unless you made other plans.
Have a great day!
Unless you made other plans.
Saturday, July 31, 2010
dopi and depo
DOPI (Double 0 Pass 1) and ROPI
It does not matter if you play 4 or 4NT to ask for aces (or key cards), if the opponents bid over your asking bid then obviously things change.
Let’s assume you are playing simple Blackwood, you have 2 aces and partner bids 4NT to ask. Your response is 5, but what if your RHO sticks in a bid of 5•? The answer is the DOPI convention: -
Double = 1st step (0 aces)
Pass = 2nd step (1 ace)
Next bid (so 5 here) = 3rd step (2 aces)
Next but 1 bid (so 5here) = 4th step etc.
The same principle applies if you play RKCB, Gerber or whatever. Note that the lower responses (double or pass) allow for a possibility of defending against a doubled contract by opponents. Often a good idea if you are short of aces/key cards!
If RHO doubles the asking bid, then there is a similar convention (ROPI)
Redouble = 1st step (0 aces)
Pass = 2nd step (1 ace)
Next bid (so 5 here) = 3rd step (2 aces) etc.
Now I have been careful to mention steps here. For example, If you play standard RKCB then 1st step = 0 or 3 key cards, 2nd step = 1 or 4 key cards etc.
When the opponents interfere above your agreed suit
DEPO (Double Even Pass Odd) and REPO
This is a less popular variation of the above but has the advantage that the opponent’s can always be doubled for penalties.
So when your Blackwood bid is overcalled its REPO: -
Double = Even (0, 2 or 4 aces)
Pass = Odd (1, 3 or 5 aces)
And if your Blackwood bid is doubled: -
Redouble = Even (0, 2 or 4 aces)
Pass = Odd (1, 3 or 5 aces)
Barry Depristo
301 288 7437
It does not matter if you play 4 or 4NT to ask for aces (or key cards), if the opponents bid over your asking bid then obviously things change.
Let’s assume you are playing simple Blackwood, you have 2 aces and partner bids 4NT to ask. Your response is 5, but what if your RHO sticks in a bid of 5•? The answer is the DOPI convention: -
Double = 1st step (0 aces)
Pass = 2nd step (1 ace)
Next bid (so 5 here) = 3rd step (2 aces)
Next but 1 bid (so 5here) = 4th step etc.
The same principle applies if you play RKCB, Gerber or whatever. Note that the lower responses (double or pass) allow for a possibility of defending against a doubled contract by opponents. Often a good idea if you are short of aces/key cards!
If RHO doubles the asking bid, then there is a similar convention (ROPI)
Redouble = 1st step (0 aces)
Pass = 2nd step (1 ace)
Next bid (so 5 here) = 3rd step (2 aces) etc.
Now I have been careful to mention steps here. For example, If you play standard RKCB then 1st step = 0 or 3 key cards, 2nd step = 1 or 4 key cards etc.
When the opponents interfere above your agreed suit
DEPO (Double Even Pass Odd) and REPO
This is a less popular variation of the above but has the advantage that the opponent’s can always be doubled for penalties.
So when your Blackwood bid is overcalled its REPO: -
Double = Even (0, 2 or 4 aces)
Pass = Odd (1, 3 or 5 aces)
And if your Blackwood bid is doubled: -
Redouble = Even (0, 2 or 4 aces)
Pass = Odd (1, 3 or 5 aces)
Barry Depristo
301 288 7437
Sunday, June 13, 2010
weak jump shifts
Weak Jump Shifts,
When partner opens say 1§ or 1¨, then a jump to 2© or 2ª is normally played as strong - a good hand with a good suit; forcing to game and slam seeking. However, there is an alternative to the traditional strong jump shift: -
Consider this hand, partner has opened 1¨. You have totally insufficient values to bid, but wouldn’t it be nice to be able to stick your oar in?
ª Q97542 © 5 ¨ 42 § 7653
If you could safely bid 2ª without exciting partner, that would be super.
And how about this hand? Partner has opened 1§. You do not really want to pass, but you ‘know’that if you bid, then partner will jump in a black suit.
ª 42 © KJ9652 ¨ 9542 § 7
Is there a solution? Enter the (very) weak jump shift.
After a 1§/¨ opening, a jump to 2©/ª may be played as a weak hand, too weak for a 1-level response; with a 6 (possibly 7) card suit and typically 2-5 pts. Now this has numerous advantages, you have described your hand perfectly and the only person who really knows what is going on is your partner!
When partner opens say 1§ or 1¨, then a jump to 2© or 2ª is normally played as strong - a good hand with a good suit; forcing to game and slam seeking. However, there is an alternative to the traditional strong jump shift: -
Consider this hand, partner has opened 1¨. You have totally insufficient values to bid, but wouldn’t it be nice to be able to stick your oar in?
ª Q97542 © 5 ¨ 42 § 7653
If you could safely bid 2ª without exciting partner, that would be super.
And how about this hand? Partner has opened 1§. You do not really want to pass, but you ‘know’that if you bid, then partner will jump in a black suit.
ª 42 © KJ9652 ¨ 9542 § 7
Is there a solution? Enter the (very) weak jump shift.
After a 1§/¨ opening, a jump to 2©/ª may be played as a weak hand, too weak for a 1-level response; with a 6 (possibly 7) card suit and typically 2-5 pts. Now this has numerous advantages, you have described your hand perfectly and the only person who really knows what is going on is your partner!
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