The Sandwich NT
Hand A The Sandwich NT is much the same as the Unusual nt but one level lower. Consider this hand. LHO opens 1 and RHO responds 1♠, what
6 65 K10943 K10874 vulnerability it’s probably a bit too high.
Now you would like to show your shapely two-suiter and an Unusual 2NT
So double? That would show these two suits but would imply a much stronger hand. The answer is that 1NT here is also unusual and shows the two unbid suits. There is no need for a natural strong 1NT overcall between two bidding opponents and opposite a passed partner.
Hand B The Sandwich NT is not restricted to the minors, it simply shows the two unbid suits. With Hand B you could also bid 1NT after LHO opens 1• and RHO bids 1
65
K10943
• 6
K10874
Monday, December 14, 2009
Monday, November 30, 2009
Directing on the wild side
What goals should the director have?
1. Hey this is a business. It's called building a bridge club. Did you forget that? Happy people will bring more customers. Unhappy people may not ever return to your game. Saying, "thanks for coming", at the end of the game. Is not motivational to the people you pissed off earlier in the game. Yelling SHUT UP at the top of your lungs is very unpleasant to hear.
This is a recreation, a fun past time, (cheaper than the movies) a good time for the participants did you forget that?
Of course it's competitive but that’s not your problem. Your problem is to make every one move along at a nice pace while they are having fun.
Well, can you be forceful and overbearing rude and nasty & strict and fun at the same time. I think that is really asking a lot of yourself.
2. So let's get right to business. You have to make sure each and every player is having a good time. People do not like being in trouble, they will be receptive to any suggestions that you can make, to help them speed up.
I don't care if they are playing well, winning or losing or whatever. They should be having a good time.
3. Make them have a good time. Do you think for 1 minute the terminology "hurry up, hurry up", will cause people to feel welcome or feel better about themselves of course not.
Patients my friend, show empathy and caring.
Let's suggest ways for them to hurry up.
a. One of the nicest directors I know helped a slow pair. By having the pair that would be passing the boards to them have them already in suits. Geez, what a good idea and that saves time.
b. Teach them how to claim correctly.
c. Suggest they stay focused in a friendly way, on what they are doing instead of letting their mind wander.
as in Oh, I didn't realize I was my turn to bid or play a card etc.
Threaten death and dying will not speed them up. Standing behind them and trying to rush them will not speed them up. Pull them to the side and ask them to help you. People like to help other people.
Ask them to help you by playing a little faster. They don't like to be embarrassed, by being screamed at by the director.
Take a board away from them politely, that will help. Don't threaten to take a board away. Just take it away with a smile and things will be back in time again.
Compliment them on playing faster, let them know that you have their best interests, they will appreciate you for it.
All you wanna be directors out there. So you know the rules and the movements. Of course keeping the game running smoothly is important, but what about the people.
That does not make you a good director.
A good director is fun to be around, people will be happy that you are coming to their table. Regardless, of the ruling. You have to act like a nice person.
You are in the entertainment business, you are not the bridge warden. You are not the jailer. You are not a jailer. You are not the Sherriff. Am I making a point.
Greet everyone of your players like they are old friends and glad to see them again. Be genuine.
I would really like to see the directors look at their jobs from a different light.
Sincerely,
Barry DePristo
1. Hey this is a business. It's called building a bridge club. Did you forget that? Happy people will bring more customers. Unhappy people may not ever return to your game. Saying, "thanks for coming", at the end of the game. Is not motivational to the people you pissed off earlier in the game. Yelling SHUT UP at the top of your lungs is very unpleasant to hear.
This is a recreation, a fun past time, (cheaper than the movies) a good time for the participants did you forget that?
Of course it's competitive but that’s not your problem. Your problem is to make every one move along at a nice pace while they are having fun.
Well, can you be forceful and overbearing rude and nasty & strict and fun at the same time. I think that is really asking a lot of yourself.
2. So let's get right to business. You have to make sure each and every player is having a good time. People do not like being in trouble, they will be receptive to any suggestions that you can make, to help them speed up.
I don't care if they are playing well, winning or losing or whatever. They should be having a good time.
3. Make them have a good time. Do you think for 1 minute the terminology "hurry up, hurry up", will cause people to feel welcome or feel better about themselves of course not.
Patients my friend, show empathy and caring.
Let's suggest ways for them to hurry up.
a. One of the nicest directors I know helped a slow pair. By having the pair that would be passing the boards to them have them already in suits. Geez, what a good idea and that saves time.
b. Teach them how to claim correctly.
c. Suggest they stay focused in a friendly way, on what they are doing instead of letting their mind wander.
as in Oh, I didn't realize I was my turn to bid or play a card etc.
Threaten death and dying will not speed them up. Standing behind them and trying to rush them will not speed them up. Pull them to the side and ask them to help you. People like to help other people.
Ask them to help you by playing a little faster. They don't like to be embarrassed, by being screamed at by the director.
Take a board away from them politely, that will help. Don't threaten to take a board away. Just take it away with a smile and things will be back in time again.
Compliment them on playing faster, let them know that you have their best interests, they will appreciate you for it.
All you wanna be directors out there. So you know the rules and the movements. Of course keeping the game running smoothly is important, but what about the people.
That does not make you a good director.
A good director is fun to be around, people will be happy that you are coming to their table. Regardless, of the ruling. You have to act like a nice person.
You are in the entertainment business, you are not the bridge warden. You are not the jailer. You are not a jailer. You are not the Sherriff. Am I making a point.
Greet everyone of your players like they are old friends and glad to see them again. Be genuine.
I would really like to see the directors look at their jobs from a different light.
Sincerely,
Barry DePristo
Sunday, November 22, 2009
Take out double and responders bids
Take out double and responders bids
Takeout Double
If your opponent opens with a suit bid, a double by you promises:
• At least opening-bid strength (12+ pts.)
• Shortness in the suit the opponent opened.
• Support for all unbid suits. Your double forces partner to bid, so you must have at least 3-card length in any suit he will choose. Typical hands for a takeout double of an opponent's 1C opening would be:
KJ76 AQ92 KJ4 65
Q104 AK84 K10432 8
The exception: There is one type of hand where you can double without support for all unbid suits. You can start with a double if you have a hand that has one long suit and great strength (17+ pts.) -- The type of hand where you don't want to risk having partner pass a simple overcall of your suit. Your hand and your suit should be strong enough that you could make game if partner has as little as 4-6 pts. and a fit -- a hand like
KJ AQJ1084 AK65 7. To describe this hand, start with a double that forces partner to respond. Then "overrule" partner's choice by freely bidding your heart suit at your next turn.
Over call your own suit 8-15 pts
Double then bid your own suit 16-18 pts
Double then freely bid your own suit skipping a level 19-21+ pts
If the opponent opens 1NT, all the suits are unbid, so a double is not for takeout. A double of 1NT is always for penalty, showing 18+ pts. Use this double cautiously. Even if you have a lot of high-card points, you should avoid making a penalty double unless you have a strong suit to lead.
Responding to Partner's Takeout Double! If partner doubles an opponent's suit bid, you must respond unless:
• The opponent on your right has also entered the bidding, OR
• You have a long, strong holding in the opponent's suit and want to "convert" partner's takeout double to a penalty double.
Respond your longest unbid suit at the level that shows your point-count:
• 0-8 pts. -- Bid your longest suit at the lowest level possible (1H - DBL - Pass - 1S, 2C or 2D).
• 8+-11 pts. -- Jump a level in your longest suit to show strength (1H - DBL - Pass - 2S, 3C or 3D).
• 7-10 pts. -- Bid 1NT if you have good stoppers in the opponent's suit.
• 11-12 pts. -- Jump to 2NT if you have stoppers in the opponent's suit, but do not have length in an unbid major.
• 12+ pts. – Cue bid the opponents suit. 100% game forcing
Barry Depristo
Takeout Double
If your opponent opens with a suit bid, a double by you promises:
• At least opening-bid strength (12+ pts.)
• Shortness in the suit the opponent opened.
• Support for all unbid suits. Your double forces partner to bid, so you must have at least 3-card length in any suit he will choose. Typical hands for a takeout double of an opponent's 1C opening would be:
KJ76 AQ92 KJ4 65
Q104 AK84 K10432 8
The exception: There is one type of hand where you can double without support for all unbid suits. You can start with a double if you have a hand that has one long suit and great strength (17+ pts.) -- The type of hand where you don't want to risk having partner pass a simple overcall of your suit. Your hand and your suit should be strong enough that you could make game if partner has as little as 4-6 pts. and a fit -- a hand like
KJ AQJ1084 AK65 7. To describe this hand, start with a double that forces partner to respond. Then "overrule" partner's choice by freely bidding your heart suit at your next turn.
Over call your own suit 8-15 pts
Double then bid your own suit 16-18 pts
Double then freely bid your own suit skipping a level 19-21+ pts
If the opponent opens 1NT, all the suits are unbid, so a double is not for takeout. A double of 1NT is always for penalty, showing 18+ pts. Use this double cautiously. Even if you have a lot of high-card points, you should avoid making a penalty double unless you have a strong suit to lead.
Responding to Partner's Takeout Double! If partner doubles an opponent's suit bid, you must respond unless:
• The opponent on your right has also entered the bidding, OR
• You have a long, strong holding in the opponent's suit and want to "convert" partner's takeout double to a penalty double.
Respond your longest unbid suit at the level that shows your point-count:
• 0-8 pts. -- Bid your longest suit at the lowest level possible (1H - DBL - Pass - 1S, 2C or 2D).
• 8+-11 pts. -- Jump a level in your longest suit to show strength (1H - DBL - Pass - 2S, 3C or 3D).
• 7-10 pts. -- Bid 1NT if you have good stoppers in the opponent's suit.
• 11-12 pts. -- Jump to 2NT if you have stoppers in the opponent's suit, but do not have length in an unbid major.
• 12+ pts. – Cue bid the opponents suit. 100% game forcing
Barry Depristo
Wednesday, November 11, 2009
2/1
Basic Two-Over-One
The concept behind this sheet is for a player who is familiar with Standard American to be able to pick up 2/1 quickly. 2/1 is very similar to Standard American but there are two major differences: -
(a) A new-suit two-level response to a 1/ opening is forcing to game.
(b) The response of 1NT to a 1/ opening is forcing.
1. A new suit at the two level
2 Suppose you have this hand and partner opens 1. You play weak jump shifts
AKJ9542 and so respond 2 and partner bids 2. What now? Playing Standard you
• K72 would probably jump to 4, but there may well be slam if partner has the Q.
A6 In 2/1 it’s simple – take it slowly with a bid of 3. The auction is absolutely game forcing.
AK96543 And playing 2/1 makes life much easier for opener. You hold this hand and
A4 open 1 and partner responds 2. What do you do now? 3? 4?
• 10 Playing 2/1 it’s very easy, take it slowly with 2. This is just one of the great
AJ8 advantages of 2/1 – there is no need to leap about to set up a game force.
2. The forcing NoTrump
So what do you do with a hand of 10-11 points where you would have responded at the two level? The answer is the forcing 1NT. Over a 1/ opening a 1NT bid is forcing; it may be virtually any shape and anything from 5 to a poor 12 points.
7 Partner opens 1. Playing Standard you would bid 2• and hopefully arrive
542 somewhere sensible. Playing 2/1 you do not have the values for a game force
• KQJ752 and so you bid a forcing 1NT. If partner then bids 2, 2 or 2 you can bid
A72 3• to show this hand type exactly.
J3 Partner opens 1 and you respond 1NT. If partner bids 2 you bid 2• - to play;
54 if partner bids 2• you pass; if partner bids 2 you bid 2 and play in the 5-2 fit;
• KJ9752 if partner bids 2 you pass and play in the 6-2 fit.
J52
3. Responding to partner’s forcing NoTrump
Opener must respond. With a six card suit he can rebid it. With 54xx he can bid 2. A 5-card major is not usually rebidable and opener my sometimes have to bid a three card minor.
There is just one really awkward shape – 4522. After a forcing NoTrump opener cannot reverse into 2 without full reversing values so this one is a problem. If the 5 card suit is very good then rebid it, otherwise bid 2. Flannery solves the problem but it really is a bit excessive to use the 2• opening just to solve this one rare problem.
If opener has a big hand with game potential then he can jump/reverse whatever as normal.
4. The constructive raise
Q65 Partner opens 1. Playing Standard you would bid 2 and pray that partner
J42 does not make a game try. Playing ‘Constructive Raises’ in the 2/1 system
• K752 you show this poor raise by bidding 1NT and then 2 over partner’s 2/•/
742 response.
KJ65 Partner opens 1. This time you have a decent raise and the way to show that
Q42 is to bid 2 immediately.
• K752
742
5. A reverse by opener after a 2/1 response
AQ653 What do you open with this hand? Playing Standard a 1 opening has its
82 problems as you do not have the values for a 3 high reverse over 2•/.
• 2 But playing 2/1 there is no problem. A 2•/ response is game forcing and
AK742 it’s best to play that a subsequent reverse by opener does not show extras.
AQ65 Here you open 1 and get a 2 or 2• response. Without agreement to the
AQ982 contrary a 2 bid would show 16+ points. Playing 2/1 it simply shows the
• 2 shape and does not promise extra values.
742
6. The 11-12 point 2NT invitational bid
53 Partner opens 1 and you have a classic 2NT response; but most players
Q82 play Jacoby 2NT. In Standard you would bid 2 followed by 2NT but that
• AK86 is game forcing in 2/1.
K942 The answer is to bid a forcing 1NT and then bid 2NT over partner’s response.
7. The 3-card limit raise
KJ3 Partner opens 1. Playing Standard you would bid 2 and then 3 to show
82 just three card support.
• K863 Playing 2/1 you start with a forcing 1NT and then jump to 3.
A942
8. 1NT and two-level responses by a Passed Hand
Note that 2/1 only applies if responder is not a passed hand, so 1NT is natural if you have passed. If partner opens 1/ in 3rd seat or 1 in 4th seat then I like to play (two-way reverse) Drury. I do not play Drury if partner opens 1 in 4th seat as that is always a sound opener (whereas 1 may well be on the light side - rule of 15) but play natural methods.
____________________
The concept behind this sheet is for a player who is familiar with Standard American to be able to pick up 2/1 quickly. 2/1 is very similar to Standard American but there are two major differences: -
(a) A new-suit two-level response to a 1/ opening is forcing to game.
(b) The response of 1NT to a 1/ opening is forcing.
1. A new suit at the two level
2 Suppose you have this hand and partner opens 1. You play weak jump shifts
AKJ9542 and so respond 2 and partner bids 2. What now? Playing Standard you
• K72 would probably jump to 4, but there may well be slam if partner has the Q.
A6 In 2/1 it’s simple – take it slowly with a bid of 3. The auction is absolutely game forcing.
AK96543 And playing 2/1 makes life much easier for opener. You hold this hand and
A4 open 1 and partner responds 2. What do you do now? 3? 4?
• 10 Playing 2/1 it’s very easy, take it slowly with 2. This is just one of the great
AJ8 advantages of 2/1 – there is no need to leap about to set up a game force.
2. The forcing NoTrump
So what do you do with a hand of 10-11 points where you would have responded at the two level? The answer is the forcing 1NT. Over a 1/ opening a 1NT bid is forcing; it may be virtually any shape and anything from 5 to a poor 12 points.
7 Partner opens 1. Playing Standard you would bid 2• and hopefully arrive
542 somewhere sensible. Playing 2/1 you do not have the values for a game force
• KQJ752 and so you bid a forcing 1NT. If partner then bids 2, 2 or 2 you can bid
A72 3• to show this hand type exactly.
J3 Partner opens 1 and you respond 1NT. If partner bids 2 you bid 2• - to play;
54 if partner bids 2• you pass; if partner bids 2 you bid 2 and play in the 5-2 fit;
• KJ9752 if partner bids 2 you pass and play in the 6-2 fit.
J52
3. Responding to partner’s forcing NoTrump
Opener must respond. With a six card suit he can rebid it. With 54xx he can bid 2. A 5-card major is not usually rebidable and opener my sometimes have to bid a three card minor.
There is just one really awkward shape – 4522. After a forcing NoTrump opener cannot reverse into 2 without full reversing values so this one is a problem. If the 5 card suit is very good then rebid it, otherwise bid 2. Flannery solves the problem but it really is a bit excessive to use the 2• opening just to solve this one rare problem.
If opener has a big hand with game potential then he can jump/reverse whatever as normal.
4. The constructive raise
Q65 Partner opens 1. Playing Standard you would bid 2 and pray that partner
J42 does not make a game try. Playing ‘Constructive Raises’ in the 2/1 system
• K752 you show this poor raise by bidding 1NT and then 2 over partner’s 2/•/
742 response.
KJ65 Partner opens 1. This time you have a decent raise and the way to show that
Q42 is to bid 2 immediately.
• K752
742
5. A reverse by opener after a 2/1 response
AQ653 What do you open with this hand? Playing Standard a 1 opening has its
82 problems as you do not have the values for a 3 high reverse over 2•/.
• 2 But playing 2/1 there is no problem. A 2•/ response is game forcing and
AK742 it’s best to play that a subsequent reverse by opener does not show extras.
AQ65 Here you open 1 and get a 2 or 2• response. Without agreement to the
AQ982 contrary a 2 bid would show 16+ points. Playing 2/1 it simply shows the
• 2 shape and does not promise extra values.
742
6. The 11-12 point 2NT invitational bid
53 Partner opens 1 and you have a classic 2NT response; but most players
Q82 play Jacoby 2NT. In Standard you would bid 2 followed by 2NT but that
• AK86 is game forcing in 2/1.
K942 The answer is to bid a forcing 1NT and then bid 2NT over partner’s response.
7. The 3-card limit raise
KJ3 Partner opens 1. Playing Standard you would bid 2 and then 3 to show
82 just three card support.
• K863 Playing 2/1 you start with a forcing 1NT and then jump to 3.
A942
8. 1NT and two-level responses by a Passed Hand
Note that 2/1 only applies if responder is not a passed hand, so 1NT is natural if you have passed. If partner opens 1/ in 3rd seat or 1 in 4th seat then I like to play (two-way reverse) Drury. I do not play Drury if partner opens 1 in 4th seat as that is always a sound opener (whereas 1 may well be on the light side - rule of 15) but play natural methods.
____________________
Saturday, October 10, 2009
Rule of 20 & Rule of 15
Discussed in detail hand evaluation using these rules.
Rule of 20 count hcp and 2 of your longest suits if the total comes to 20 or more you can open the bidding.
Good luck
Rule of 20 count hcp and 2 of your longest suits if the total comes to 20 or more you can open the bidding.
Good luck
Thursday, August 13, 2009
Leisure world welcome
Morris,
Your name was listed as someone I could express my concerns with on the Leisure world website.
My name is Barry Depristo 15101 Interlachen Dr. #712 Silver Spring, MD 20906 301 288 7437 DePristo@gmail.com
On Tuesday Evening at 6:50 August 11th, my wife Betsy and I went into the duplicate bridge game (ballroom) next to the bar in building 1. It was my intent to play bridge. I was greeted by a rather Nasty person ( found out later her name is Carolyn ) Rather then getting a nice how are you and how can I help you. I get a “you can’t play here you don’t live here start of a conversation”, this didn’t do anything for my dander if you know what I mean. But I said, “ I do, with which I now hear. “WELL, NO BODY HAS TOLD ME”, statement. (not that I would expect the world to come to a complete stop to inform this person that we own a unit here in Leisure World. Well fortunately Betsy and I had just received our ID Cards so I showed them to her. We have been living here 5 days. So we sit down and play.
15 minutes later we go to the bar and I get a drink for my wife and myself. I am now totally embarrassed by this same person, telling me that I am not allowed to bring alcohol into this area. I have been playing bridge 40 years and no one up to this point has come across like this. There are no rules about drinking. Of course getting drunk or obnoxious is certainly not permitted, but that is not going to happen with one drink.
What is Leisure worlds views on a Leisure world sponsored event that is being run by a couple of tyrants.
I spoke to Palma Seeger and she concurred with this Carolyn. I would like to see this rule (if it is a rule in writing. If it isn’t a rule, then I don’t want to hear about it anymore. Both of these people should be replaced by nice people, it would sure be good for the Leisure world community.
Thank you for listening to me.
Barry Depristo
By the way if you are not the person that I should be telling this story too, would you please forward it to the correct party and keep me advised.
Your name was listed as someone I could express my concerns with on the Leisure world website.
My name is Barry Depristo 15101 Interlachen Dr. #712 Silver Spring, MD 20906 301 288 7437 DePristo@gmail.com
On Tuesday Evening at 6:50 August 11th, my wife Betsy and I went into the duplicate bridge game (ballroom) next to the bar in building 1. It was my intent to play bridge. I was greeted by a rather Nasty person ( found out later her name is Carolyn ) Rather then getting a nice how are you and how can I help you. I get a “you can’t play here you don’t live here start of a conversation”, this didn’t do anything for my dander if you know what I mean. But I said, “ I do, with which I now hear. “WELL, NO BODY HAS TOLD ME”, statement. (not that I would expect the world to come to a complete stop to inform this person that we own a unit here in Leisure World. Well fortunately Betsy and I had just received our ID Cards so I showed them to her. We have been living here 5 days. So we sit down and play.
15 minutes later we go to the bar and I get a drink for my wife and myself. I am now totally embarrassed by this same person, telling me that I am not allowed to bring alcohol into this area. I have been playing bridge 40 years and no one up to this point has come across like this. There are no rules about drinking. Of course getting drunk or obnoxious is certainly not permitted, but that is not going to happen with one drink.
What is Leisure worlds views on a Leisure world sponsored event that is being run by a couple of tyrants.
I spoke to Palma Seeger and she concurred with this Carolyn. I would like to see this rule (if it is a rule in writing. If it isn’t a rule, then I don’t want to hear about it anymore. Both of these people should be replaced by nice people, it would sure be good for the Leisure world community.
Thank you for listening to me.
Barry Depristo
By the way if you are not the person that I should be telling this story too, would you please forward it to the correct party and keep me advised.
Tuesday, August 11, 2009
Why
Why didn't I play in the nationals? I have been moving. Lots of things to do on the honey do list. Betsy and I moved to Leisure World from Olney, md. Only 3 miles but we had to throw junk away, pack, throw junk away, move, throw junk away, unpack, throw junk away. Got the picture. Looking forward to seeing all of you at the tables.
Oh, by the way pay attention to your partners discards. He is drawing you a picture of what to do next.
Oh, by the way pay attention to your partners discards. He is drawing you a picture of what to do next.
Monday, July 27, 2009
Zero Tolerance
This is frustrating, I have spent so much time trying to teach and get more players both new and experienced bridge players to start playing duplicate. Then you sit down at the table and some nasty old bitty is so preoccupied with trying to win at any expense, they ruin the experience for a new player. SO they made a mistake, it is not death and dying it’s a game. Screaming DIRECTOR, EMBARRASING the new player. What purpose does all this have?
WHAT THE HELL IS WRONG WITH THESE PEOPLE. Maybe they should see psychiatrist or maybe I should and wash my hands of the entire American Contract Bridge League I am so disgusted I am starting to question my self, do I really want to be in the same room with some of emotional basket cases, I am starting to wonder if they are even safe to be around.
It’s one thing if you playing against a peer and they make a mistake, well then it’s a competition ok. BUT not when you are sitting there against novices. I quit playing at clubs 20 years ago because of this same reason. Now I have been back for the last 5 years. I am questioning myself again.
Do you really think Screaming Director or now Screaming Director Please, makes that much difference? When these crazies are trying to intimidate the opponents and get a good result any way they can. I think anyone that calls the director in anything other then a civil in tone type of communication should be THROWN OUT OF THE GAME!!!!! ZERO TOLERANCE enforce it!!!!!
So you get rid of a few people, but the game now comes alive with thousands of new players that would enjoy the competition.
Barry Depristo,
Teacher / director
Have a great day!
Unless you made other plans.
WHAT THE HELL IS WRONG WITH THESE PEOPLE. Maybe they should see psychiatrist or maybe I should and wash my hands of the entire American Contract Bridge League I am so disgusted I am starting to question my self, do I really want to be in the same room with some of emotional basket cases, I am starting to wonder if they are even safe to be around.
It’s one thing if you playing against a peer and they make a mistake, well then it’s a competition ok. BUT not when you are sitting there against novices. I quit playing at clubs 20 years ago because of this same reason. Now I have been back for the last 5 years. I am questioning myself again.
Do you really think Screaming Director or now Screaming Director Please, makes that much difference? When these crazies are trying to intimidate the opponents and get a good result any way they can. I think anyone that calls the director in anything other then a civil in tone type of communication should be THROWN OUT OF THE GAME!!!!! ZERO TOLERANCE enforce it!!!!!
So you get rid of a few people, but the game now comes alive with thousands of new players that would enjoy the competition.
Barry Depristo,
Teacher / director
Have a great day!
Unless you made other plans.
Wednesday, June 17, 2009
This stops overbidding
One of the hardest things to do is to consider all the possible bids your partner could have made and then evaluate the one that he did make. He thinks best describes his hand, unless you have something else to brag about that you haven’t already shared in the bidding. Stay out of the auction. In other words you shouldn’t make another bid that you already have described as your hand.
When I first started playing I would bid until I got doubled. Then I knew I had gone high enough. (this is not a recommended way of bidding)
When I first started playing I would bid until I got doubled. Then I knew I had gone high enough. (this is not a recommended way of bidding)
Saturday, June 13, 2009
Prempting discussion
Preempting is a very important part of the modern game. Bidding is so accurate these days that if you allow your opponents to have a free run they will almost always go right. By preempting you sometimes force them to guess, and the more they have to guess the more they will go wrong.
If that were the whole story, people would be preempting randomly with all types of hands. Unfortunately there are also dangers in preempting, the main one being your pesky partner. Since partner may wake up with a good hand or want to further the preempt, they must maintain some constructive element. Also, if they are too wild you are going to risk getting doubled and going for a number every now and then. Such is life, but you don't want it to happen too often. The other big risk is that you are going to help the opponents play the hand. Remember, when you are preempting it is probably the opponent's hand and you are volunteering information to them.
The key is to find a balance between the constructive and destructive elements of preempting and between the risks and rewards associated with it. This can be very difficult and require good judgment and a lot of experience.
The main thing a preempt should say is that the hand is offensively oriented. If partner wants to save, that's great, if he wants to bid game, that's great. If the opponents want to double me that's not a complete disaster because I can take some tricks and they'll probably make something. If partner wants to double them... well he's on his own. A hand that screams a certain suit is a good candidate for a preempt.
To determine whether a hand fits with my definition of what a preempt should look like, I look at these 3 factors:
• Purity. Are my honors located in my long suits or my short suits? Do I have a lot of stray values? QJTxxx x Qxxx xx is an excellent preempt. However, Axxxxx K Jxx Qxx is awful. The purer the hand is, the better it is for a preempt.
• Suit Texture. Let's say the auction were to go 2 -p-p-X-p-p-p. Would you rather have KQ5432 of spades, or QJT876? I would definitely prefer the latter. The texture of a suit is what makes it playable with a bad split, or when partner raises you to game with a lot of controls and a stiff trump.
• Shape. 6322 and 7222 are the kiss of death. If you are 6-4 or 7-4 your trick taking potential increases and so does the opponents. This is a very overlooked factor by most people.
Let me dispel some myths while I'm at it. Voids are not a bad thing when preempting. They add to the offensive potential of your hand. Preempt MORE aggressively with a void, not less. Side aces are also not a bad thing. They're much better than say, side queens. They serve offensive purposes as well as defensive ones.
Note that high cards were never mentioned. High cards are irrelevant when it comes to preempting if the hand is less than opening bid strength.
Does this mean I would preempt with 0 points? Yes, I would consider T98765 2 T932 52 white/red in first seat to be a 2 opener. I wouldn't do this red since the playing strength of the hand is just too low, but you will note it does well on purity, suit quality(!!) and shape.
Regarding 5 card weak 2's, I will rarely do it unless in 3rd seat. If I have an extraordinary suit and 5431 or 55 then I might, but 5332 preempts are losing bridge in my opinion. The hand is balanced, not a 1 suited offensive hand. If you do open 5 card weak 2's liberally, your partner needs to know this so that he doesn't always misjudge later in the auction.
How much playing strength is required to preempt in first or second? I've never followed the rule of "2, 3, or 4" or anything like that, if it looks like a preempt just preempt. I do recommend your 3 level openers to be about a trick heavier than your 2 level openers, despite a minority style of 2 bids being constructive and 3 bids being garbage. It just seems logical to me that if you contract for 1 more trick, you are showing the same hand type except a trick (generally in the form of a trump) better. I also suggest that any hand you open at the 2 level with red/white should be opened at the 3 level white/red. That is another way of saying that red/white preempts should be a trick better than white/red ones. At equal vulnerability, just use your judgment.
Nothing is perfect, the main goal of preempting is to make life hard on the opponents. If your requirements are too rigid, you aren't preempting enough. However, the hands need to be offensive and able to take some tricks. 5332 just won't cut it.
If that were the whole story, people would be preempting randomly with all types of hands. Unfortunately there are also dangers in preempting, the main one being your pesky partner. Since partner may wake up with a good hand or want to further the preempt, they must maintain some constructive element. Also, if they are too wild you are going to risk getting doubled and going for a number every now and then. Such is life, but you don't want it to happen too often. The other big risk is that you are going to help the opponents play the hand. Remember, when you are preempting it is probably the opponent's hand and you are volunteering information to them.
The key is to find a balance between the constructive and destructive elements of preempting and between the risks and rewards associated with it. This can be very difficult and require good judgment and a lot of experience.
The main thing a preempt should say is that the hand is offensively oriented. If partner wants to save, that's great, if he wants to bid game, that's great. If the opponents want to double me that's not a complete disaster because I can take some tricks and they'll probably make something. If partner wants to double them... well he's on his own. A hand that screams a certain suit is a good candidate for a preempt.
To determine whether a hand fits with my definition of what a preempt should look like, I look at these 3 factors:
• Purity. Are my honors located in my long suits or my short suits? Do I have a lot of stray values? QJTxxx x Qxxx xx is an excellent preempt. However, Axxxxx K Jxx Qxx is awful. The purer the hand is, the better it is for a preempt.
• Suit Texture. Let's say the auction were to go 2 -p-p-X-p-p-p. Would you rather have KQ5432 of spades, or QJT876? I would definitely prefer the latter. The texture of a suit is what makes it playable with a bad split, or when partner raises you to game with a lot of controls and a stiff trump.
• Shape. 6322 and 7222 are the kiss of death. If you are 6-4 or 7-4 your trick taking potential increases and so does the opponents. This is a very overlooked factor by most people.
Let me dispel some myths while I'm at it. Voids are not a bad thing when preempting. They add to the offensive potential of your hand. Preempt MORE aggressively with a void, not less. Side aces are also not a bad thing. They're much better than say, side queens. They serve offensive purposes as well as defensive ones.
Note that high cards were never mentioned. High cards are irrelevant when it comes to preempting if the hand is less than opening bid strength.
Does this mean I would preempt with 0 points? Yes, I would consider T98765 2 T932 52 white/red in first seat to be a 2 opener. I wouldn't do this red since the playing strength of the hand is just too low, but you will note it does well on purity, suit quality(!!) and shape.
Regarding 5 card weak 2's, I will rarely do it unless in 3rd seat. If I have an extraordinary suit and 5431 or 55 then I might, but 5332 preempts are losing bridge in my opinion. The hand is balanced, not a 1 suited offensive hand. If you do open 5 card weak 2's liberally, your partner needs to know this so that he doesn't always misjudge later in the auction.
How much playing strength is required to preempt in first or second? I've never followed the rule of "2, 3, or 4" or anything like that, if it looks like a preempt just preempt. I do recommend your 3 level openers to be about a trick heavier than your 2 level openers, despite a minority style of 2 bids being constructive and 3 bids being garbage. It just seems logical to me that if you contract for 1 more trick, you are showing the same hand type except a trick (generally in the form of a trump) better. I also suggest that any hand you open at the 2 level with red/white should be opened at the 3 level white/red. That is another way of saying that red/white preempts should be a trick better than white/red ones. At equal vulnerability, just use your judgment.
Nothing is perfect, the main goal of preempting is to make life hard on the opponents. If your requirements are too rigid, you aren't preempting enough. However, the hands need to be offensive and able to take some tricks. 5332 just won't cut it.
Sunday, June 7, 2009
Defensive signals
SUMMARY OF DEFENSIVE SIGNALS
There are many ways to indicate, show, promise and inform a partner by the lead of a certain card or via a discard of a specific card the expectation of the ensuing play. These defense signals have a definite meaning and belong in every partnership agreement. This is a short summary of the different approaches, which a partnership may employ. This does not include every possible lead, defensive signal, and/or discard method, rather only those which frequency is higher than usual for the general partnership.
General Rules of Defensive Signals
1. When following to a suit or when discarding in a suit, the relative spot of a card is used to send signals.
2. Signals are usually given with cards from the Two spot to the Nine spot.
3. A signal can be, with a high frequency, interpreted:
A. From the bidding.
B. From the cards visible in the dummy.
C. From the cards held in your hand.
4. It is sometimes necessary, if not prudent, to wait until partner plays to the second round in a suit to fully understand a signal.
5. It is not always appropriate to signal, especially with a strong defensive hand.
6. It is not mandatory to follow your partner's signals when it is deemed not suitable given the context of a hand.
7. It is generally profitable to signal as much as possible against less experienced players.
8. It is strongly recommended to always signal on the opening lead.
Attitude Signal
The attitude signal indicates the level of interest toward the suit, in which the signal is given. Common practice include positive and negative attitude signals.
A relatively high card shows positive attitude toward the suit being led.
Or a relatively high card shows negative attitude toward the suit being led.
An echo is a positive attitude signal consisting in a high card followed as soon as possible with a lower card.
Count Signal
The count signal is used to show the number of cards held in a suit being led.
A relatively high card shows an even number of cards in a suit being led.
A relatively low card shows an odd number of cards in a suit being led.
Count is given by playing:
1. High-Low from two cards.
2. Low from three or five cards
3. Second-high followed with Third-high from four cards.
Preference Signal
The preference signal is used to show a preference for one of the two suits outside the trump suit and the suit being led.
A relatively high card shows a preference for the higher-ranking suit outside the trump suit and the suit being led.
A relatively low card shows a preference for the lower-ranking suit outside the trump suit and the suit being led.
Precedence When Signaling
1. When following to a suit led by your partner:
A. Signal attitude with the first card.
B. Signal preference with the second card.
2. When following to a suit led by the declarer:
A. Signal count with the first card.
B. Signal preference with the second card.
3. When discarding in a suit not yet led:
A. Signal attitude with the first card.
B. Signal present count with the second card.
4. When discarding in a suit already led:
A. Signal present count.
There are many ways to indicate, show, promise and inform a partner by the lead of a certain card or via a discard of a specific card the expectation of the ensuing play. These defense signals have a definite meaning and belong in every partnership agreement. This is a short summary of the different approaches, which a partnership may employ. This does not include every possible lead, defensive signal, and/or discard method, rather only those which frequency is higher than usual for the general partnership.
General Rules of Defensive Signals
1. When following to a suit or when discarding in a suit, the relative spot of a card is used to send signals.
2. Signals are usually given with cards from the Two spot to the Nine spot.
3. A signal can be, with a high frequency, interpreted:
A. From the bidding.
B. From the cards visible in the dummy.
C. From the cards held in your hand.
4. It is sometimes necessary, if not prudent, to wait until partner plays to the second round in a suit to fully understand a signal.
5. It is not always appropriate to signal, especially with a strong defensive hand.
6. It is not mandatory to follow your partner's signals when it is deemed not suitable given the context of a hand.
7. It is generally profitable to signal as much as possible against less experienced players.
8. It is strongly recommended to always signal on the opening lead.
Attitude Signal
The attitude signal indicates the level of interest toward the suit, in which the signal is given. Common practice include positive and negative attitude signals.
A relatively high card shows positive attitude toward the suit being led.
Or a relatively high card shows negative attitude toward the suit being led.
An echo is a positive attitude signal consisting in a high card followed as soon as possible with a lower card.
Count Signal
The count signal is used to show the number of cards held in a suit being led.
A relatively high card shows an even number of cards in a suit being led.
A relatively low card shows an odd number of cards in a suit being led.
Count is given by playing:
1. High-Low from two cards.
2. Low from three or five cards
3. Second-high followed with Third-high from four cards.
Preference Signal
The preference signal is used to show a preference for one of the two suits outside the trump suit and the suit being led.
A relatively high card shows a preference for the higher-ranking suit outside the trump suit and the suit being led.
A relatively low card shows a preference for the lower-ranking suit outside the trump suit and the suit being led.
Precedence When Signaling
1. When following to a suit led by your partner:
A. Signal attitude with the first card.
B. Signal preference with the second card.
2. When following to a suit led by the declarer:
A. Signal count with the first card.
B. Signal preference with the second card.
3. When discarding in a suit not yet led:
A. Signal attitude with the first card.
B. Signal present count with the second card.
4. When discarding in a suit already led:
A. Signal present count.
Saturday, May 30, 2009
Losing trick count
Losing Trick Count
The basic losing trick count (LTC) can be used after a trump fit has been established. It is not designed for notrump hands and is quite unsuitable for misfit hands. It does not replace point count. Rather, it is used as an adjunct to the point count system when a trump fit comes to light. After the trump fit is known, the LTC will give a more accurate guide to the potential of the partnership hands.
THE LTC FORMULA:
1. COUNT your losers
2. ADD partner’s losers
3. DEDUCT this total from 24
The answer is the number of tricks the partnership can expect to win.
For example, a normal opening hand contains 7 losers. If your partner also has 7 losers, these together total 14. This number is subtracted from 24 which leaves 10—the number of tricks the partnership can expect to win.
HOW DO WE COUNT LOSERS?
1. Count no more than 3 losers per suit.
2. Count the A, K and Q as winners, cards below the queen as losers.
3. Count the supported queen as a winner, but count a 3 card or longer suit with the queen and no other honor as 2 ½ losers.
Examples:
AKQxx no losers
AKxxx 1 loser
Axxxx 2 losers
Jxx 3 losers
Jxxx 3 losers
Jxxxx 3 losers
xx 2 losers
Kx 1 loser
Kxx 2 losers
Kxxxx 2 losers
Do you get the idea?
1. A normal minimum opening hand contains 7 losers. If partner opens and you have a 7 loser hand with a fit, you most likely belong in game. An invitational hand contains 8 losers. If your partner opens and you have an 8 loser hand with a fit, invite! Don't worry too much about high card points.
Here is an example of an 8 loser hand which I saw underbid recently:
KQx
A10
Jxx
10xxx
In the actual case, there was an opening bid of 1H and an overcall of 1S. Next hand passsed and this hand had to take a call. A simple raise prevented the partnership from getting to game, whereas a cuebid, showing an invitational hand, provided the impetus needed to bid game. This was a team game where games must be bid.
2. If your partner opens the bidding and you have a 5 loser hand, you should immediately think about slam, particularly if you have a fit. The calculation is simple: 7 + 5 = 12. 24 - 12 = 12: the number of tricks you expect to take.
If your partner opens 1S and you hold either of the following 5 loser hands, you should explore for slam.
Axx
KQxx
x
AKxx
QJxx
Ax
KQJxx
Kx
The basic losing trick count (LTC) can be used after a trump fit has been established. It is not designed for notrump hands and is quite unsuitable for misfit hands. It does not replace point count. Rather, it is used as an adjunct to the point count system when a trump fit comes to light. After the trump fit is known, the LTC will give a more accurate guide to the potential of the partnership hands.
THE LTC FORMULA:
1. COUNT your losers
2. ADD partner’s losers
3. DEDUCT this total from 24
The answer is the number of tricks the partnership can expect to win.
For example, a normal opening hand contains 7 losers. If your partner also has 7 losers, these together total 14. This number is subtracted from 24 which leaves 10—the number of tricks the partnership can expect to win.
HOW DO WE COUNT LOSERS?
1. Count no more than 3 losers per suit.
2. Count the A, K and Q as winners, cards below the queen as losers.
3. Count the supported queen as a winner, but count a 3 card or longer suit with the queen and no other honor as 2 ½ losers.
Examples:
AKQxx no losers
AKxxx 1 loser
Axxxx 2 losers
Jxx 3 losers
Jxxx 3 losers
Jxxxx 3 losers
xx 2 losers
Kx 1 loser
Kxx 2 losers
Kxxxx 2 losers
Do you get the idea?
1. A normal minimum opening hand contains 7 losers. If partner opens and you have a 7 loser hand with a fit, you most likely belong in game. An invitational hand contains 8 losers. If your partner opens and you have an 8 loser hand with a fit, invite! Don't worry too much about high card points.
Here is an example of an 8 loser hand which I saw underbid recently:
KQx
A10
Jxx
10xxx
In the actual case, there was an opening bid of 1H and an overcall of 1S. Next hand passsed and this hand had to take a call. A simple raise prevented the partnership from getting to game, whereas a cuebid, showing an invitational hand, provided the impetus needed to bid game. This was a team game where games must be bid.
2. If your partner opens the bidding and you have a 5 loser hand, you should immediately think about slam, particularly if you have a fit. The calculation is simple: 7 + 5 = 12. 24 - 12 = 12: the number of tricks you expect to take.
If your partner opens 1S and you hold either of the following 5 loser hands, you should explore for slam.
Axx
KQxx
x
AKxx
QJxx
Ax
KQJxx
Kx
Sunday, May 17, 2009
Intentional errors
Players DO not make mistakes intentionally, so play bridge and shut up.
Negative comments are unacceptable.
Chances are, you both are right in your disagreement, just agree as to how you would handle the same situation if it came up again.
You have to be playing the same system, regardless of what it is.
People with less experience need opportunity to learn. Be patient.
See you at the table.
Negative comments are unacceptable.
Chances are, you both are right in your disagreement, just agree as to how you would handle the same situation if it came up again.
You have to be playing the same system, regardless of what it is.
People with less experience need opportunity to learn. Be patient.
See you at the table.
Wednesday, May 6, 2009
New Minor Forcing
New Minor Forcing.
New Minor Forcing comes up when responder bids a new minor after opener has rebid 1NT. For example,
1C 1S 1NT 2D !
2D is artificial, showing 11+ points and asking opener to further describe his hand. Responder is interested in game, normally has a five-card major suit and wants to know if opener has support.
Opener's responses, in order of priority, are:
Two of the other major
Two of responder's major
Three of responder's major
2NT
3NT
Raise of the new minor
Rebid of opener's suit shows a 4-card suit
shows 3-card support, 12 to 13- pts
shows 3-card support, 13+ to 14+ pts
shows a stopper in the unbid suit, 12 to 13- pts
shows a stopper in the unbid suit, 13+ to 14 pts
Natural, denies the ability to make any other bid
Denies the ability to make any other bid
To show a genuine two-suiter, responder can rebid the new minor on the third round.
New Minor Forcing is OFF in competition.
New Minor Forcing comes up when responder bids a new minor after opener has rebid 1NT. For example,
1C 1S 1NT 2D !
2D is artificial, showing 11+ points and asking opener to further describe his hand. Responder is interested in game, normally has a five-card major suit and wants to know if opener has support.
Opener's responses, in order of priority, are:
Two of the other major
Two of responder's major
Three of responder's major
2NT
3NT
Raise of the new minor
Rebid of opener's suit shows a 4-card suit
shows 3-card support, 12 to 13- pts
shows 3-card support, 13+ to 14+ pts
shows a stopper in the unbid suit, 12 to 13- pts
shows a stopper in the unbid suit, 13+ to 14 pts
Natural, denies the ability to make any other bid
Denies the ability to make any other bid
To show a genuine two-suiter, responder can rebid the new minor on the third round.
New Minor Forcing is OFF in competition.
Saturday, May 2, 2009
When you are searching for a trump suit, your first goal is to find an 8-card or longer fit in a major.
________________________________________
When you're 4-4 or 4-4-4
If partner opens and you have two or three 4-card suits you could bid at the one-level, you should respond your cheapest suit (or, with a weak hand, your cheaper major). This practice is called "up-the-line", and opener also follows it with his rebids. After you respond, if opener has a 4-card suit he can show at the one-level, he'll always bid it. If he has two 4-card suits, he'll bid the cheaper one.
This practice conserves space and assures that you'll always find a 4-4 major-suit fit if you have one. Here's an example:
Partner You
Q7 AK86
KQ65 J973
J102 65
KQJ4 865
Partner opens 1C. Even though your spades are stronger, the correct response with your hand is 1H (the cheaper of your 4-card suits). With the hand above, partner will raise to 2H, you'll pass, and you'll probably make an overtrick.
Look what happens if you violate the "up-the-line" practice and respond 1S with the hand above. Opener will assume that since you bypassed a 1H bid, you don't hold 4 hearts, so he'll rebid 1NT to show his minimum opener and keep the bidding low. Your hand isn't strong enough to risk going to the 2-level in a new suit, so you'll have to pass, and you've missed your 8-card heart fit. Your 1NT contract will go down if an opponent has 5 or more diamonds.
Now change partner's hand by moving two of the small hearts to spades, giving him Q765 KQ J102 KQJ4.
With this hand, he won't raise hearts, but he has room to bid 1S to show a 4-card suit, which you'll raise to 2S. By responding your cheaper major, you've left room to find a possible fit in either major.
Note that there are three more basic tenets of bridge bidding that opener and responder are following here:
1) New suits at the one-level are forcing. With rare exceptions, after an opening and a response, neither of you should pass until you've reached a contract of 1NT or 2 of a suit.
2) If you hold a balanced minimum , don't bid past 1NT unless you know you have a trump fit. This rule applies to opener (whose minimum is 13-15 pts.) and responder (6-9 pts.). In general, when you have a weak hand with only 4-card suits, the only time you should go to the 2-level is when you're raising partner's suit to confirm an 8+-card fit.
3) If partner bypasses a suit he could have bid at the one-level, you should assume he does not have 4-card length in it. The only time you should ever bid a suit partner has denied is when you have significant extra values and want to force the auction higher (see the lesson on The Reverse).
Bypassing diamonds
Many pairs apply the "up-the-line" principle only to majors, and they will bypass a 4-card diamond suit -- or even a 5-carder -- to show their cheaper major. The weaker your hand, the more anxious you should be to follow this guideline.
________________________________________
When you're 5-4
The up-the-line rule applies only when you have 4-card suits of equal length. If you have suits of unequal length, you should still show your longer one first.
If your 5-card suit is lower in rank than your 4-carder, you won't have to bid both of them. If partner opens 1C, respond 1H with K1092 QJ983 8 Q64 . If partner now rebids 1NT, you won't have to worry about showing your spades because you know you don't have a fit there -- since partner bypassed a 1S bid, you should assume that he does not hold 4 spades. Over 1NT, you would bid 2H and partner will pass.
If your 5-card suit is higher in rank than your 4-card suit, there will be many auctions where you'll want to bid both suits. If partner opens 1D, you would respond 1S with J10942 KJ86 K7 54. This will imply that you don't have 4 hearts, but if partner rebids 1NT, you plan to show your heart suit by bidding 2H. Partner will know you had a good reason for skipping hearts with your first response, and that reason has to be that your spades are longer. This specific auction is not forcing and asks partner to choose between your two suits, either by passing (if he prefers hearts) or by bidding 2S. Going to the 2-level is safe here because partner's 1NT rebid promises at least 2-3 cards in every suit, so you know you have a fair fit.
________________________________________
When you're 5-5
A different principle operates when you have two 5-card suits. In this case, you should respond the higher-ranking suit first, and then bid the lower-ranking one. With two long suits, you'll often want to force partner to choose one, so it's important to plan your bids so you can leave partner with maximum bidding space on the second round of the auction.
If partner opens 1D and you hold K8742 KJ952 J 43, you should respond 1S (the higher-ranking suit). If partner rebids 1NT, you'll bid 2H, which is non-forcing and lets him choose between your suits at the 2-level. If you instead responded 1H on the first round, you would have to bid 2S at your next turn. If partner preferred hearts, he'd have to go up to the 3-level to take you back to that suit.
If you have a weak hand and partner does not rebid 1NT, you'll have to give up on showing both of your suits. With the hand above, after 1D by partner--1S by you--2D by partner, you should pass. A 2H rebid by you would be forcing here, and your hand is too weak to risk taking this non-fitting auction any higher.
This approach works well with stronger hands, too. For example, if partner opens 1C, you would bid 1S with
AK1084 KJ872 J3 4. Over partner's 1NT rebid, you would now jump to 3H (because, as noted above, 2H would not be forcing here). If partner has 3-card spade support, he'll bid 3S over your 3H. If he has 4 hearts, he'll raise to 4H. If he has neither of these holdings, he'll rebid 3NT and you can now complete the picture of your hand by bidding 4H.
________________________________________
When you're 4-4 or 4-4-4
If partner opens and you have two or three 4-card suits you could bid at the one-level, you should respond your cheapest suit (or, with a weak hand, your cheaper major). This practice is called "up-the-line", and opener also follows it with his rebids. After you respond, if opener has a 4-card suit he can show at the one-level, he'll always bid it. If he has two 4-card suits, he'll bid the cheaper one.
This practice conserves space and assures that you'll always find a 4-4 major-suit fit if you have one. Here's an example:
Partner You
Q7 AK86
KQ65 J973
J102 65
KQJ4 865
Partner opens 1C. Even though your spades are stronger, the correct response with your hand is 1H (the cheaper of your 4-card suits). With the hand above, partner will raise to 2H, you'll pass, and you'll probably make an overtrick.
Look what happens if you violate the "up-the-line" practice and respond 1S with the hand above. Opener will assume that since you bypassed a 1H bid, you don't hold 4 hearts, so he'll rebid 1NT to show his minimum opener and keep the bidding low. Your hand isn't strong enough to risk going to the 2-level in a new suit, so you'll have to pass, and you've missed your 8-card heart fit. Your 1NT contract will go down if an opponent has 5 or more diamonds.
Now change partner's hand by moving two of the small hearts to spades, giving him Q765 KQ J102 KQJ4.
With this hand, he won't raise hearts, but he has room to bid 1S to show a 4-card suit, which you'll raise to 2S. By responding your cheaper major, you've left room to find a possible fit in either major.
Note that there are three more basic tenets of bridge bidding that opener and responder are following here:
1) New suits at the one-level are forcing. With rare exceptions, after an opening and a response, neither of you should pass until you've reached a contract of 1NT or 2 of a suit.
2) If you hold a balanced minimum , don't bid past 1NT unless you know you have a trump fit. This rule applies to opener (whose minimum is 13-15 pts.) and responder (6-9 pts.). In general, when you have a weak hand with only 4-card suits, the only time you should go to the 2-level is when you're raising partner's suit to confirm an 8+-card fit.
3) If partner bypasses a suit he could have bid at the one-level, you should assume he does not have 4-card length in it. The only time you should ever bid a suit partner has denied is when you have significant extra values and want to force the auction higher (see the lesson on The Reverse).
Bypassing diamonds
Many pairs apply the "up-the-line" principle only to majors, and they will bypass a 4-card diamond suit -- or even a 5-carder -- to show their cheaper major. The weaker your hand, the more anxious you should be to follow this guideline.
________________________________________
When you're 5-4
The up-the-line rule applies only when you have 4-card suits of equal length. If you have suits of unequal length, you should still show your longer one first.
If your 5-card suit is lower in rank than your 4-carder, you won't have to bid both of them. If partner opens 1C, respond 1H with K1092 QJ983 8 Q64 . If partner now rebids 1NT, you won't have to worry about showing your spades because you know you don't have a fit there -- since partner bypassed a 1S bid, you should assume that he does not hold 4 spades. Over 1NT, you would bid 2H and partner will pass.
If your 5-card suit is higher in rank than your 4-card suit, there will be many auctions where you'll want to bid both suits. If partner opens 1D, you would respond 1S with J10942 KJ86 K7 54. This will imply that you don't have 4 hearts, but if partner rebids 1NT, you plan to show your heart suit by bidding 2H. Partner will know you had a good reason for skipping hearts with your first response, and that reason has to be that your spades are longer. This specific auction is not forcing and asks partner to choose between your two suits, either by passing (if he prefers hearts) or by bidding 2S. Going to the 2-level is safe here because partner's 1NT rebid promises at least 2-3 cards in every suit, so you know you have a fair fit.
________________________________________
When you're 5-5
A different principle operates when you have two 5-card suits. In this case, you should respond the higher-ranking suit first, and then bid the lower-ranking one. With two long suits, you'll often want to force partner to choose one, so it's important to plan your bids so you can leave partner with maximum bidding space on the second round of the auction.
If partner opens 1D and you hold K8742 KJ952 J 43, you should respond 1S (the higher-ranking suit). If partner rebids 1NT, you'll bid 2H, which is non-forcing and lets him choose between your suits at the 2-level. If you instead responded 1H on the first round, you would have to bid 2S at your next turn. If partner preferred hearts, he'd have to go up to the 3-level to take you back to that suit.
If you have a weak hand and partner does not rebid 1NT, you'll have to give up on showing both of your suits. With the hand above, after 1D by partner--1S by you--2D by partner, you should pass. A 2H rebid by you would be forcing here, and your hand is too weak to risk taking this non-fitting auction any higher.
This approach works well with stronger hands, too. For example, if partner opens 1C, you would bid 1S with
AK1084 KJ872 J3 4. Over partner's 1NT rebid, you would now jump to 3H (because, as noted above, 2H would not be forcing here). If partner has 3-card spade support, he'll bid 3S over your 3H. If he has 4 hearts, he'll raise to 4H. If he has neither of these holdings, he'll rebid 3NT and you can now complete the picture of your hand by bidding 4H.
Friday, April 17, 2009
Declare a hand check list
Declare a hand Check list
There is the opening lead!
Down comes the dummy!
Nice hand! Thank you Partner
What am I thinking?
I. Where is the hand you were bidding in the auction? :)
II. Was the opening lead fast?
III. Did the opening leader have a tough time finding a lead?
1. Review the bidding, make a plan.
2. Carefully consider the opening lead, make a plan.
a. Did defender lead his partner bid suit? Why not?
b. Did defender lead a singleton? Length lead?
c. Did defender make an honor lead? Top of a sequence?
d. Top of an internal sequence?
e. Was it a fourth best lead (low from an honor)
f. Top of a doubleton
g. Was the lead from an unbid suit?
h. Was the lead thru dummies strength?
i. Was the lead good for you free finesse ?
3. How many total tricks do I need to make? Make a plan.
a. How many do I already have?
b. How many do I need to generate?
c. Try for overtricks, will it jeopardize contract?
4. OK let’s go to work. Ways to create tricks. Make a plan.
a. Force opponents to win higher tricks to promote mine.
b. Ruff cards in the hand with short trump
c. Do I pull trump now? Timing?
d. How many trumps do I need to ruff losers?
e. What if the opps get in and play my trump before I am ready? Timing
f. Strip hand and loose control, let opponents lead broken suit.
g. Count winners and losers, should I concede losers early or
wait until end of play? Timing
5. Here I am half way thru, how’s it going?
a. Did the opponents signal each other? Get any clues?
b. Any surprises about the distribution of the hands?
c. What was the opening lead? Why?
6. I have the rest of the tricks! Am I 100% sure, no doubt about it. State my line of play and CLAIM! Well done to me There is no reason to take more time.
Barry Depristo
There is the opening lead!
Down comes the dummy!
Nice hand! Thank you Partner
What am I thinking?
I. Where is the hand you were bidding in the auction? :)
II. Was the opening lead fast?
III. Did the opening leader have a tough time finding a lead?
1. Review the bidding, make a plan.
2. Carefully consider the opening lead, make a plan.
a. Did defender lead his partner bid suit? Why not?
b. Did defender lead a singleton? Length lead?
c. Did defender make an honor lead? Top of a sequence?
d. Top of an internal sequence?
e. Was it a fourth best lead (low from an honor)
f. Top of a doubleton
g. Was the lead from an unbid suit?
h. Was the lead thru dummies strength?
i. Was the lead good for you free finesse ?
3. How many total tricks do I need to make? Make a plan.
a. How many do I already have?
b. How many do I need to generate?
c. Try for overtricks, will it jeopardize contract?
4. OK let’s go to work. Ways to create tricks. Make a plan.
a. Force opponents to win higher tricks to promote mine.
b. Ruff cards in the hand with short trump
c. Do I pull trump now? Timing?
d. How many trumps do I need to ruff losers?
e. What if the opps get in and play my trump before I am ready? Timing
f. Strip hand and loose control, let opponents lead broken suit.
g. Count winners and losers, should I concede losers early or
wait until end of play? Timing
5. Here I am half way thru, how’s it going?
a. Did the opponents signal each other? Get any clues?
b. Any surprises about the distribution of the hands?
c. What was the opening lead? Why?
6. I have the rest of the tricks! Am I 100% sure, no doubt about it. State my line of play and CLAIM! Well done to me There is no reason to take more time.
Barry Depristo
Thursday, April 16, 2009
Over bidding
YOU have to believe 100% in the information you gave you partner.
Get his permission to bid more.
Don't just do it. ASK pard?
Make a game try :)
Get his permission to bid more.
Don't just do it. ASK pard?
Make a game try :)
Friday, April 3, 2009
Take out double and responders bids
Takeout Double
If your opponent opens with a suit bid, a double by you promises:
• At least opening-bid strength (12+ pts.)
• Shortness in the suit the opponent opened.
• Support for all unbid suits. Your double forces partner to bid, so you must have at least 3-card length in any suit he will choose. Typical hands for a takeout double of an opponent's 1C opening would be:
KJ76 AQ92 KJ4 65
Q104 AK84 K10432 8
The exception: There is one type of hand where you can double without support for all unbid suits. You can start with a double if you have a hand that has one long suit and great strength (17+ pts.) -- The type of hand where you don't want to risk having partner pass a simple overcall of your suit. Your hand and your suit should be strong enough that you could make game if partner has as little as 4-6 pts. and a fit -- a hand like
KJ AQJ1084 AK65 7. To describe this hand, start with a double that forces partner to respond. Then "overrule" partner's choice by freely bidding your heart suit at your next turn.
Over call your own suit 8-15 pts
Double then bid your own suit 16-18 pts
Double then freely bid your own suit skipping a level 19-21+ pts
If the opponent opens 1NT, all the suits are unbid, so a double is not for takeout. A double of 1NT is always for penalty, showing 18+ pts. Use this double cautiously. Even if you have a lot of high-card points, you should avoid making a penalty double unless you have a strong suit to lead.
Responding to Partner's Takeout Double! If partner doubles an opponent's suit bid, you must respond unless:
• The opponent on your right has also entered the bidding, OR
• You have a long, strong holding in the opponent's suit and want to "convert" partner's takeout double to a penalty double.
Respond your longest unbid suit at the level that shows your point-count:
• 0-8 pts. -- Bid your longest suit at the lowest level possible (1H - DBL - Pass - 1S, 2C or 2D).
• 8+-11 pts. -- Jump a level in your longest suit to show strength (1H - DBL - Pass - 2S, 3C or 3D).
• 7-10 pts. -- Bid 1NT if you have good stoppers in the opponent's suit.
• 11-12 pts. -- Jump to 2NT if you have stoppers in the opponent's suit, but do not have length in an unbid major.
• 12+ pts. – Cue bid the opponents suit. 100% game forcing
If your opponent opens with a suit bid, a double by you promises:
• At least opening-bid strength (12+ pts.)
• Shortness in the suit the opponent opened.
• Support for all unbid suits. Your double forces partner to bid, so you must have at least 3-card length in any suit he will choose. Typical hands for a takeout double of an opponent's 1C opening would be:
KJ76 AQ92 KJ4 65
Q104 AK84 K10432 8
The exception: There is one type of hand where you can double without support for all unbid suits. You can start with a double if you have a hand that has one long suit and great strength (17+ pts.) -- The type of hand where you don't want to risk having partner pass a simple overcall of your suit. Your hand and your suit should be strong enough that you could make game if partner has as little as 4-6 pts. and a fit -- a hand like
KJ AQJ1084 AK65 7. To describe this hand, start with a double that forces partner to respond. Then "overrule" partner's choice by freely bidding your heart suit at your next turn.
Over call your own suit 8-15 pts
Double then bid your own suit 16-18 pts
Double then freely bid your own suit skipping a level 19-21+ pts
If the opponent opens 1NT, all the suits are unbid, so a double is not for takeout. A double of 1NT is always for penalty, showing 18+ pts. Use this double cautiously. Even if you have a lot of high-card points, you should avoid making a penalty double unless you have a strong suit to lead.
Responding to Partner's Takeout Double! If partner doubles an opponent's suit bid, you must respond unless:
• The opponent on your right has also entered the bidding, OR
• You have a long, strong holding in the opponent's suit and want to "convert" partner's takeout double to a penalty double.
Respond your longest unbid suit at the level that shows your point-count:
• 0-8 pts. -- Bid your longest suit at the lowest level possible (1H - DBL - Pass - 1S, 2C or 2D).
• 8+-11 pts. -- Jump a level in your longest suit to show strength (1H - DBL - Pass - 2S, 3C or 3D).
• 7-10 pts. -- Bid 1NT if you have good stoppers in the opponent's suit.
• 11-12 pts. -- Jump to 2NT if you have stoppers in the opponent's suit, but do not have length in an unbid major.
• 12+ pts. – Cue bid the opponents suit. 100% game forcing
Saturday, March 28, 2009
Basic 2 /1 short version
Basic Two-Over-One
Short article
2/1 is very similar to Standard American but there are two major differences: -
(a) A new-suit two-level response to a 1 H/S opening is forcing to game.
(b) The response of 1NT to a 1H/S opening is forcing.
1. A new suit at the two level
S 2 Suppose you have this hand and partner opens 1S. You play weak jump shifts
H AKJ9542 and so respond 2H and partner bids 2S. What now? Playing Standard you
H K72 would probably jump to 4H, but there may well be slam if partner has the HQ.
C A6 In 2/1 it’s simple – take it slowly with a bid of 3H. The auction is forcing
S AK96543 And playing 2/1 makes life much easier for opener. You open this hand
H A4 1S and partner responds 2H. What do you do now? 3S? 4S?
D 10 Playing 2/1 it’s very easy, take it slowly with 2S. This is just
C AJ8 one great advantages of 2/1 – there is no need to leap about to set up game force.
2. The forcing NoTrump
So what do you do with a hand of 10-11 points where you would have responded at the two level? The answer is the forcing 1NT. Over a 1H/S opening a 1NT bid is forcing; it may be virtually any shape and anything from 5 to a poor 12 points.
S 7 Partner opens 1S Playing Standard you would bid 2 D and hopefully arrive
H 542 somewhere sensible. Playing 2/1 you do not have the values for a game force
D KQJ752 and so you bid a forcing 1NT. If partner then bids 2C, 2 H or 2S you can bid 3D to show this hand type exactly.
D A72
S J3 Partner opens 1S and you respond 1NT. If partner bids 2C you bid 2D - to play;
H 54 if partner bids 2D you pass; if partner bids 2H you bid 2S and play in the 5-2 fit;
D KJ9752 if partner bids 2S you pass and play in the 6-2 fit.
C J52
3. Responding to partner’s forcing NoTrump
Opener must respond. With a six card suit he can rebid it. With 54xx he can bid 2H. A 5-card major is not usually rebidable and opener my sometimes have to bid a three card minor.
There is just one really awkward shape – 4522. After a forcing NoTrump opener cannot reverse into 2S without full reversing values so this one is a problem. If the 5 card suit is very good then rebid it, otherwise bid 2C. Flannery solves the problem but it really is a bit excessive to use the 2D opening just to solve this one rare problem.
If opener has a big hand with game potential then he can jump/reverse whatever as normal.
4. The constructive raise
S Q65 Partner opens 1S. Playing Standard you would bid 2S and pray that partner
H J42 does not make a game try. Playing ‘Constructive Raises’ in the 2/1 system
D K752 you show this poor raise by bidding 1NT and then 2 over partner’s 2C/D/H
C 742 response.
S KJ65 Partner opens 1S. This time you have a decent raise and the way to show that
H Q42 is to bid 2S immediately.
D K752
C 742
5. A reverse by opener after a 2/1 response
S AQ653 What do you open with this hand? Playing Standard a 1S opening has its
H 82 problems as you do not have the values for a 3C high reverse over 2D/H.
D 2 But playing 2/1 there is no problem. A 2 D/H response is game forcing and
C AK742 it’s best to play that a subsequent reverse by opener does not show extras.
S AQ65 Here you open 1H and get a 2C or 2D response. Without agreement to the
H AQ982 contrary a 2S bid would show 16+ points. Playing 2/1 it simply shows the
D 2 shape and does not promise extra values.
C 742
6. The 11-12 point 2NT invitational bid
S 53 Partner opens 1S and you have a classic 2NT response; but most players
H Q82 play Jacoby 2NT. In Standard you would bid 2C followed by 2NT but that
D AK86 is game forcing in 2/1.
C K942 The answer is to bid a forcing 1NT and then bid 2NT over partner’s response.
7. The 3-card limit raise
S KJ3 Partner opens 1S. Playing Standard you would bid 2C and then 3S to show
H 82 just three card support.
D K863 Playing 2/1 you start with a forcing 1NT and then jump to 3S
C A942
8. 1NT and two-level responses by a Passed Hand
Note that 2/1 only applies if responder is not a passed hand, so 1NT is natural if you have passed. If partner opens 1 H/S in 3rd seat or 1S in 4th seat then I like to play (two-way reverse) Drury. I do not play Drury if partner opens 1H in 4th seat as that is always a sound opener (whereas 1S may well be on the light side - rule of 15) but play natural methods.
____________________
Short article
2/1 is very similar to Standard American but there are two major differences: -
(a) A new-suit two-level response to a 1 H/S opening is forcing to game.
(b) The response of 1NT to a 1H/S opening is forcing.
1. A new suit at the two level
S 2 Suppose you have this hand and partner opens 1S. You play weak jump shifts
H AKJ9542 and so respond 2H and partner bids 2S. What now? Playing Standard you
H K72 would probably jump to 4H, but there may well be slam if partner has the HQ.
C A6 In 2/1 it’s simple – take it slowly with a bid of 3H. The auction is forcing
S AK96543 And playing 2/1 makes life much easier for opener. You open this hand
H A4 1S and partner responds 2H. What do you do now? 3S? 4S?
D 10 Playing 2/1 it’s very easy, take it slowly with 2S. This is just
C AJ8 one great advantages of 2/1 – there is no need to leap about to set up game force.
2. The forcing NoTrump
So what do you do with a hand of 10-11 points where you would have responded at the two level? The answer is the forcing 1NT. Over a 1H/S opening a 1NT bid is forcing; it may be virtually any shape and anything from 5 to a poor 12 points.
S 7 Partner opens 1S Playing Standard you would bid 2 D and hopefully arrive
H 542 somewhere sensible. Playing 2/1 you do not have the values for a game force
D KQJ752 and so you bid a forcing 1NT. If partner then bids 2C, 2 H or 2S you can bid 3D to show this hand type exactly.
D A72
S J3 Partner opens 1S and you respond 1NT. If partner bids 2C you bid 2D - to play;
H 54 if partner bids 2D you pass; if partner bids 2H you bid 2S and play in the 5-2 fit;
D KJ9752 if partner bids 2S you pass and play in the 6-2 fit.
C J52
3. Responding to partner’s forcing NoTrump
Opener must respond. With a six card suit he can rebid it. With 54xx he can bid 2H. A 5-card major is not usually rebidable and opener my sometimes have to bid a three card minor.
There is just one really awkward shape – 4522. After a forcing NoTrump opener cannot reverse into 2S without full reversing values so this one is a problem. If the 5 card suit is very good then rebid it, otherwise bid 2C. Flannery solves the problem but it really is a bit excessive to use the 2D opening just to solve this one rare problem.
If opener has a big hand with game potential then he can jump/reverse whatever as normal.
4. The constructive raise
S Q65 Partner opens 1S. Playing Standard you would bid 2S and pray that partner
H J42 does not make a game try. Playing ‘Constructive Raises’ in the 2/1 system
D K752 you show this poor raise by bidding 1NT and then 2 over partner’s 2C/D/H
C 742 response.
S KJ65 Partner opens 1S. This time you have a decent raise and the way to show that
H Q42 is to bid 2S immediately.
D K752
C 742
5. A reverse by opener after a 2/1 response
S AQ653 What do you open with this hand? Playing Standard a 1S opening has its
H 82 problems as you do not have the values for a 3C high reverse over 2D/H.
D 2 But playing 2/1 there is no problem. A 2 D/H response is game forcing and
C AK742 it’s best to play that a subsequent reverse by opener does not show extras.
S AQ65 Here you open 1H and get a 2C or 2D response. Without agreement to the
H AQ982 contrary a 2S bid would show 16+ points. Playing 2/1 it simply shows the
D 2 shape and does not promise extra values.
C 742
6. The 11-12 point 2NT invitational bid
S 53 Partner opens 1S and you have a classic 2NT response; but most players
H Q82 play Jacoby 2NT. In Standard you would bid 2C followed by 2NT but that
D AK86 is game forcing in 2/1.
C K942 The answer is to bid a forcing 1NT and then bid 2NT over partner’s response.
7. The 3-card limit raise
S KJ3 Partner opens 1S. Playing Standard you would bid 2C and then 3S to show
H 82 just three card support.
D K863 Playing 2/1 you start with a forcing 1NT and then jump to 3S
C A942
8. 1NT and two-level responses by a Passed Hand
Note that 2/1 only applies if responder is not a passed hand, so 1NT is natural if you have passed. If partner opens 1 H/S in 3rd seat or 1S in 4th seat then I like to play (two-way reverse) Drury. I do not play Drury if partner opens 1H in 4th seat as that is always a sound opener (whereas 1S may well be on the light side - rule of 15) but play natural methods.
____________________
Friday, March 27, 2009
Pissed off
Names are not important. But I was playing last night, early in the set I made 1 serious mistake/error/screwup/bad judgement/etc My TEAM MATE IS reading me the riot act. (not my partner) The person had a complete emotional break down over what? A bridge error? Well it's not like I can go back and do it over correctly. The person had completely lost their mind. Hollaring, screaming I felt really bad, beat up, exhausted almost like I had set fire to their house & killed their cat. I was ready to go home, screw the whole thing, this is not worth the agravation. I even had a hard time getting to sleep that night.
But there is a moral to the story 2 sets later, this same crazy old person, makes a similar error, causes the 4 of us to loose the match. I never said a word. I know that person did not do it intentionally, so lets get on with the game.
Try to set a good example for the idiots of the world, maybe it will help.
I don't know.
But there is a moral to the story 2 sets later, this same crazy old person, makes a similar error, causes the 4 of us to loose the match. I never said a word. I know that person did not do it intentionally, so lets get on with the game.
Try to set a good example for the idiots of the world, maybe it will help.
I don't know.
Monday, March 23, 2009
0 to 50 partner request for Saturday game
Click on comment
Leave name and email address and any note's OR
email me.
Call me.
This is the friendliest game in town!!
Leave name and email address and any note's OR
email me.
Call me.
This is the friendliest game in town!!
Saturday, March 21, 2009
Weak Jump Shifts
If you missed our get together today. We had a nice turn out. It was extremely informative
We discussed in detail
Weak Jump Shifts, 1H or 1S then 2C of 2D
When partner opens say 1C or 1H, then a jump to 2H or 2S is normally played as strong - a good hand with a good suit; forcing to game and slam seeking. However, there is an alternative to the traditional strong jump shift: - - - -
Consider this hand, partner has opened 1¨. You have totally insufficient values to bid, but wouldn’t it be nice to be able to stick your 2 cents in?
S Q97542 H 5 D 42 C 7653
If you could safely bid 2S without exciting partner, that would be super.
And how about this hand? Partner has opened 1§. You do not really want to pass, but you ‘know’that if you bid, then partner will jump in a black suit.
S 42 H KJ9652 D 9542 C 7
Is there a solution? Enter the (very) weak jump shift.
After a 1C opening, a jump to 2H may be played as a weak hand, too weak for a 1-level response; with a 6 (possibly 7) card suit and typically 2-5 pts. Now this has numerous advantages, you have described your hand perfectly and the only person who really knows what is going on is your partner!
We discussed in detail
Weak Jump Shifts, 1H or 1S then 2C of 2D
When partner opens say 1C or 1H, then a jump to 2H or 2S is normally played as strong - a good hand with a good suit; forcing to game and slam seeking. However, there is an alternative to the traditional strong jump shift: - - - -
Consider this hand, partner has opened 1¨. You have totally insufficient values to bid, but wouldn’t it be nice to be able to stick your 2 cents in?
S Q97542 H 5 D 42 C 7653
If you could safely bid 2S without exciting partner, that would be super.
And how about this hand? Partner has opened 1§. You do not really want to pass, but you ‘know’that if you bid, then partner will jump in a black suit.
S 42 H KJ9652 D 9542 C 7
Is there a solution? Enter the (very) weak jump shift.
After a 1C opening, a jump to 2H may be played as a weak hand, too weak for a 1-level response; with a 6 (possibly 7) card suit and typically 2-5 pts. Now this has numerous advantages, you have described your hand perfectly and the only person who really knows what is going on is your partner!
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